What to use on the interior and exterior of a canoe

[ScottyC]

Hello everyone
I'm new to the forum and is presently restoring a trembley canoe. I have been reading through a lot of the great information posted on the forum. I have replaced 1 stem, a few ribs and about 50% of the planks. I have stripped the interior of the canoe also. The question I have is what to do to treat the inside and outside of the canoe before putting the canvas on? The canoe is really dried out. Should I put something on it to soak into the wood? I have been working on this for a few years, mostly reading a book on this. Any help would be appreciated!
Scott

 

[Woodpile]

In "The Wood & Canvas Canoe" by Jerry Stelmok and Rollin Thurlow, they use hot (not boiling) boiled linseed oil and clear cuprinol wood preservative, three quarters oil, one quarter preservative. Also noted are the flammability cautions while heating the oil and allowing at least 4 weeks of good drying weather before varnishing. If you have the book, pages 169-170.

Don

 

[Dan Miller]

clear cuprinol wood preservative, three quarters oil, one quarter preservative.

Don

That was written back in the days when clear Cuprinol was oil-based. Now it is water-based, a shadow of its former self, and not of much use anymore.

 

[MackyM]

Is there a suitable replacement for Cuprinol?

 

[Dan Miller]

Is there a suitable replacement for Cuprinol?

Some folks are using zinc naphthanate, which for the time being at least, is still available in Canada.

Otherwise, it's boiled linseed alone or with mildicide added, or heavily thinned varnish.

Or, nothing at all.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I varnish my hulls. The goal..(at least mine)... is to minimize water absorption into the planking.
As I see it, the purpose for an oil absorbed in the hull is to displace or prevent water from soaking in.
You can read other posts about organic (linseed) oil being basically food for mildew and draw
your own theories about its use, or it's use without a oil compatible mildew inhibitor.

Some see it as adding flexibility to the wood as well. I once read a study ( wished I would have saved it) about linseed oil adding flexibility to wood, and the conclusion was that the breaking pressure in tests was fairly consistent with oiled and un oiled wood. The difference noted was in the sound during failure. Un-oiled wood made a louder crack!
Your mileage may vary....

 

[Woodpile]

That was written back in the days when clear Cuprinol was oil-based. Now it is water-based, a shadow of its former self, and not of much use anymore.

Yes, the book is copyrighted in 1987, I should have realized that. Has anyone used CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) on canoe restorations? Used it on a 60 year old cedar rowing skiff restored last year, albeit a little pricey it is a very good product for water proofing and re-strengthening old wood. Here's a description.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636