Treat all the canvas or simply key areas?

[Gary]

I'm sure this will open up debate to both sides but I'm wondering what the consensus is regarding treating the canvas before applying the filler. Not to question Rollin but simply to clarify, for in his book I believe he states that he only treats the areas under the outer gunwales, the stem band and keel if it has one? I have always treated the whole canvas however if I can get away with treating only these key sections I'd prefer that, as I don't like working with the preservative. I do not add anything to my filler but rely on what I use on the canvas before filling. Your thoughts? Thanks, Gary

 

[MGC]

Well, it's a deep subject and it has been frequently discussed on the forum. Search on the word fungicide and you'll land on lot's of related conversation.
Here's one such:
http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/mildewcide.13809/#post-69732

Some folks blend fungicide into the filler, some paint it on the canvas, some still have a bit of white lead squirreled away that they blend into the filler and some just don't worry about it. The canvas that I just received from Northwoods Canoe Co. is pre-treated...that's my preference these days.
Good luck finding a can of the good old Cuprinol with copper napthate.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I’ve got a couple cans that say 10% copper napthenate. Never used them. Might try it on the next one.

 

[MGC]

I’ve got a couple cans that say 10% copper napthenate. Never used them. Might try it on the next one.

Those are worth their weight in gold!

 

[David Satter]

https://www.trek7.com/products/aqua-armor-for-naturals/

 

[Greg Nolan]

Aqua-armor-for-naturals does not appear to be useful for canoe canvas. It is described as a water repellent -- and I see no indication that it is intended to treat against fungus/mold/mildew. Indeed, it seems to me that it might be difficult to paint over Aqua-armor. It seems to be intended for boat covers, outdoor furniture upholstery, tents, and maybe rain gear. Not for canvas covering a canoe hull.

 

[mmmalmberg]

This? http://poles.com/CuNap/Concentrate

 

[Gary]

Thanks everyone, I can see where this is going, ha. I use a clear preservative which my local Hardware Store sells, containing Zinc Naphthenate. It works well and is designed to prevent rot and mildew in a number of products including canvas. It has rather significant off gassing which I would prefer to limit if possible. So my question still is do I continue to treat all the canvas or do others, as suggested by Rollin in his book, only treat areas of the canoe where moisture could get trapped, under the outwale, stem bands, keel? It's too cold here today to do this anyway so I'm enjoying the discussion.
Happy Easter!

 

[Floyd Reid]

I'm a neophyte in the world of wooden canoes so take this comment for what it's worth. I would treat the entire canvass. The reason being if I upset and swamp the canoe I would expect water to seep between the planks. With the entire canvass treated then hopefully fungus and mildew won't take hold.

 

[David Satter]

Floyd, good point. If I don't use treated canvas , I do treat the inside of the canvas, and also put a mildewcide in my filler. I do believe a lot of rotted canvas starts on the inside.

 

[Gary]

Thanks for everyone's help, we have a sunny and windy day today before we are to get more wet snow so I moved it outside and treated the whole canoe. Now for some warm days to fill the canvas.
Stay safe, Gary

 

[Dan Miller]

Copper napthanate made green Cuprinol. I believe Rollin wrote in WC many years ago about what happens if you treat your canvas with green Cuprinol. What you want is the old clear Cuprinol, which was made with zinc napthanate. It may not be any more, but ZnNap was available in Canada well after it was not in the US. In the US, you may still be able to get it if you are in the industry and prepared to receive a 55 gallon drum of it.

 

[Gary]

Hi Dan, you are correct it is available here in Canada at hardware stores and is a clear preservative containing Zinc Napthenate. I buy it in one gallon cans and use about 3/4's of a can to do a 16' canoe making sure to give the areas prone to rot and mildew, under the outwale, stem band, and keel, a good dose. It doesn't spread well when applying, but if you use broad brush strokes with gaps between each, and allow these to seep together, then go back and touch up any areas you missed it covers reasonably well. Just make sure you apply this outside or in a well ventilated area. I've never had a problem as yet?
Thanks, Gary