Stain before epoxy?

lhenderson

Curious about Wooden Canoes
I've got an old cedarstrip that I'm refinishing. I pulled all of the old fiberglass off and am working on sanding it right now. There were a lot of gaps in the planks that I filled with WS filler compound. It's a little lighter though and even sanded down it's still noticeable. I knew this when I applied it, but did it anyway :rolleyes: . I was thinking of using a latex based wood stain before putting on the fiberglass to help hide the filler. Is that going to effect the adhesion of the epoxy at all? Any suggestions?

Lindsay
 
Canvas

Lindsay:

I think I remember this boat - I could be way off, but did you paddle it with the Norumbega's one day? If this is the critter, and if you already haven't fiberglassed it, have you considered a canvas skin? There are lots of pros and cons, but a canvas skin is periodically replaceable for one thing.

Cheers.

Fitz
 
If, as Fitz mentioned, the boat can be canvased instead of fiberglassed it's a better option (and if you're doing a good job on your glass work, canvasing is somewhat easier and a lot less tedious). Rubber-based stain??? Never heard of it. Are you sure it's not water-based stain - which is available from companies like Minwax? You can use epoxy over both water-based and alcohol-based stains without ruining the adhesion of the resin. Alcohol-based tends to be beautifully transparent where water-based is usually slightly more cloudy but it's somewhat easier to work with because it dries slower.

In either case, the amount of time available to rub it down and even it out is far less than with oil stain, so neat, even application is needed. Alcohol stain dries almost instantly, water-based will yield a couple minutes of rub-out time before it's too late to mess with. Most people get a more uniform application with water-based by building up the color using several diluted coats of stain, rather than trying to do it all in one coat. As long as you keep in mind that you don't have long to work it and need to apply it neatly (no drips on adjacent areas and don't bite off more than you can chew in terms of area covered per brush-full) application is pretty easy. Keep in mind though, that most filler won't absorb stain the same way that wood will. You may find that staining won't hide the fills, but simply makes both the wood and the fills different colors. It's probably worth making some scrap wood test chunks with fills to see whats likely to happen on the real thing.
 
Yep, I did paddle with you guys. I moved back to MI early last summer (which is why I haven't paddled with you all since).

I had some water leaking through the ribs on the inside, caused some pretty nasty looking stripes on the outside. Then I discovered a crack in the fiberglass on the hull, which soon became a hole. It was just time to strip it down and start over.

I guess I did mean water-based stain. I'm planning to test it first to see if the filler will absorb it or not, and I saved some off the boat just for that purpose. I did a similar thing on the inside last summer which worked, but I wasn't putting epoxy over it.

Canvas... I can't. The boat was a gift from my father in law. He and several others have cautioned me not to go that route, keep it wood. I am pretty partial to the natural look. Even after sanding it still bears some scars from an epic Missanaibi adventure almost 40 years ago. I can't cover that up.

I just hope I can do something to even out that light filler... Who knows, maybe I'll have to go canvas! :eek:
 
I think of those dents & dings on my strip & glass canoe as "character marks;" the boat wears them proudly. There are too many for me to remember what & where for all of them, but some are remembered well... like that Namegkogan River one...

If I wanted a coffee table, I'd have built a coffee table. This is a boat!!! :)
 
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