Shaping Ribs

[Michael Graessle]

I will apologize up front if this is rehashing an old thread, but I was unable to find it running a search.

I was wondering what is the best method for shaping the edges of the ribs? I have a 1924 Old Town Otca. I tried a 1/4" round over bit on a trim router, but the profile seemed to be off a bit. Is there a better bit to use or is it a matter of hand shaping it?

Thanks for the help.

Michael

 

[Jan Bloom]

Do it easily and quickly by hand. Should be able to get what you want with a block plane and a sanding block.,1/4 round is to tight a radius. You could try a different size round over bit for roughing and refine with a block plane and sanding block. Just pay attention to the direction of the grain. You will probably be the only person that will know it is not exact.

 

[Michael Graessle]

Thanks Jan. It never crossed my mind just to plane it down. I had it stuck in my mind to use a router. Hand forming it seems a much better option.

 

[Dan Miller]

Use a 1/2 or 3/4" router bit, and raise it above the table enough to get the arc you need to match the old ribs.

 

[Paul East]

Michael, post some pics as you make progress. We all like to watch other peoples projects.

 

[Dan Lindberg]

It depends on how close to factory you want to be, and what shape it was from the factory.
I will say that once the proper bit is found and set up, it doesn't take long to run a set of ribs through it.

Dan


"It never crossed my mind just to plane it down. I had it stuck in my mind to use a router. Hand forming it seems a much better option."

 

[Michael Graessle]

Thank you for all of the advice. I am going to try hand plane them. I was hoping to use the router, but without a router table to properly set the ribs on, it makes it difficult to set the depth and hold every thing level.

 

[David Satter]

A small finger plane, so light and easy you can just hold the rib in one hand and plane it. their great on cedar. Takes only a few minutes. you can get a Stanley for under 10 bucks.

 

[Howie]

For what it's worth, I get the taper with a table saw. I use a contraption I got at Sears a long time ago that holds the part at an angle while moving through the blade. Guess it's called a 'table saw taper jig'. There's 3 steps: I first cut the 45deg chamfer along both sides. Then, assuming the ribs are tapered, I use the jig to cut all four tapered ends with the blade at 90 degrees. I then I angle the blade to 45 again, back the fence away a bit, then add the chamfer to the tapered cuts. Then I sand all edges to round them a bit. Sounds like a lot of work, but in a short time you can cut a bunch of ribs that are all the same.

 

[Rollin Thurlow]

For the Old Town ribs that are tapered, they re only tapered on the side facing the center of the canoe. The taper is more of a soft curve than a straight line taper. The side facing the stem is straight. If there is a center rib, then both sides are tapered. A 3/8" router bit adjusted up or down just a bit gives a good variety of rounded shapes that can match almost anything. Its easy to do 4 or 5 ribs by hand but after that even a cheap router table is a great aid.
Rollin

 

[Michael Graessle]

Thank you so very much for the advice. I am currently replacing some rib tips and I found a 30 degree cut on the scroll saw matches pretty closely to original. I will have some minor hand shaping to finish it off.

I do think a router table is in my future once I start replacing full ribs.

Howie, do you have a photo of your taper jig?

Rollin, all of my ribs are tapered on both sides. I have a 1924 Otca, I am not sure if different models had different ribs.

Again, thank you to all of your for your sage advice and for your love of wooden canoes. It is inspiring to us novices and helps to justify depleting my retirement fund trying to fix an "just an old wooden boat!"

 

[Rollin Thurlow]

I don't mean to be a pain the where ever the pain is but I will bet you a free clinching iron that your ribs are tapered (tapered in the width of the rib) on just one side, unless someone in the past has replaced all the ribs in your canoe. Different O.T. models did have different ribs but they were all either all straight with no taper or tapered on one side except for the middle rib.
Perhaps when your talking about the taper you mean the radius or curved edge on each side and yes your right that each side does have the same radius.
Rollin

 

[Howie]

Son of a... I just checked on two Yankees in the garage; you're right - the taper is on one side only! I never noticed it before, I suppose on-account-a all ribs I've replaced have came out in pieces. At least that's what I'm telling myself. Good info, Rollin. Thanks!

Michael - here's some urls for the taper jig. The 1st one looks like something you can make up yourself. I might do just that...

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...yZcQt5JrMGvngf678ZaM6VFYC3-382YMaAnUWEALw_wcB

https://www.ebay.com/i/253409537784?chn=ps

 

[Michael Graessle]

Rollin, forgive me, I am but a mere novice and even that is giving me more credit than I am due. Yes, I was talking about the radius. I had bought a few shaped ribs from Jerry down the street from you and thought that they were just cut wrong! Thank you for the expert advice. I would have certainly goofed up putting in my new ribs.

 

[David Satter]

As every one has probably noticed . It's very easy for your eye to trick you, even when you take out a whole rib and lay it on the bench and look for the taper. Now that I have to wear glasses for everything I always mark and number ribs that I replace to keep them in some sort of order.

 

[Brad Posey]

Sure glad I read this thread. I'm getting ready to replace almost all of the ribs in my project. The idea that the taper of the ribs were only on one side. This tells me that I had better pay more attention.
OK, now. Is there a formula for where the taper starts?

 

[Brad Posey]

after review, I can now see what the rib arrangement is, at least on mine. The rib in the center is tapered on both sides. From that point, each rib is tapered on the side of the rib toward the center rib.
My next question was concerning where does the taper start. As far as I can tell on mine, the taper starts generally at a point after the chin starts its bend to the gunnel, or just off the bottom where the bottom appears to be somewhat flat.
Also thanks Howie for the JIG suggestion, it will make the job easier.

 

[Michael Graessle]

Brad, I have two ribs made by Jerry at Island Falls. They are 45 inches long, the tapers start approximately 12 inches from each end. Looking at it a little more, it seems the magic formula is to divide the rib into quarters. The two outside quarters are tapered, leaving the middle two straight. Mind you I am just a novice and getting this merely by looking at one specific example. Maybe a more seasoned professional has more insight.