Restoring Seats Old Town

Pete Diver

New Member
Good evening,
I have removed the cane and am trying to remove the strip and have partially done so. The residue left in the bottom of the grove is not water soluble. What did Old Town use to "glue in" these strips. This canoe has never had new seats so it came as is from the factory. Can't seem to get it cleaned out. Thinking I would be better off using 1 inch poly and weave a new seat. Any advice.
Thanks, Pete
 
Are you referring to a splined, pre-woven cane job? Removing the spline and glue takes way more patience than I have... For me, it's easier to simply replace the seat.

If the frame is still good, and you want to re-use it, consider turning it upside down, drilling appropriate holes, and hand weaving the new cane. It's far less aggravating than removing that glued mess, and is relaxing, even therapeutic...
 
I'm not saying I enjoy removing glued-in splines, but it's not a nightmare. I work out the spline with a narrow chisel, and then use chisels to clean out the glue. The spline usually splits up but it will come out, and with persistence it doesn't take long to go around a seat frame. The glue clean-up is faster than getting the spline out. Just chisel and scrape. The whole process is far faster than making new seats and costs nothing but a little time. One benefit - the patina on the existing frames matches that on the rest of the canoe. Plus as many times I've been frustrated by an older (even historic) canoe having lost some of its original parts, I just can't throw out a good piece of original work.

I haven't made it yet, but I plan to make a tool just for spline glue clean-up - a sharpened hook the width of the groove that can be pulled. Like a router plane, but simpler. I imagine this being safer and even faster than a chisel for glue clean-up.
 
Splined seats can vary in ease of removel. It depends on how well they are glued. Some are remarkably easy, but most are a SOB.
I apply acetone with a syringe. It softens the glue. Denatured Alcohol works also, but not as well as acetone.
Sometimes I drill tiny holes in the spline and apply it there. Soak it well, as the spline will absorb a lot of acetone.
Cover it with a towel and let it soak for an hour.
Tools I use are, 12cc syringes from Jamestown, a broken one clawed tack puller, a utility knife, narrow chisel.
 
Chemically stripping the varnish from the seat is always my first step. On a rare occasion, the splines can be removed rather easily afterwards with the bent tool available from H.H. Perkins. Usually, the splines require a utility knife along the edges and then the bent tool. Often, the spline comes out in strips. Vinegar is used to remove some of the old glue. Sometimes paint stripper is used in the groove. A 1/4" chisel removes almost all of the remaining glue and/ or spline.
 
This may be one of the rare occasions when there is a general consensus about a particular repair...these pressed cane seats are an abomination/bugger to repair. I'm with Michael when it comes to this repair on older boats (since when are canoes with pressed cane older?) but if I need to repair these on a newer (Royalex, fiberglass, what have you) canoe I've stepped over to the dark side. I replace the seats. I have several spare seat frames in reserve that could have the pressed cane replaced if I ever feel motivated...probably never.
Once upon a time, long ago and far away I recall making fun of my BIL for replacing his seats instead of repairing them...in fact, I have his seat frames in reserve....I will never confess to him that he might have been on to something....
 
I have had decent luck applying lots of hot water or steam to the spline.
 
On occasion I have chiseled out the original cane, inlaid strips of matching wood then drilled new holes and wove real cane. The inlays were hardly visible under the new cane.
 
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