I am replacing the ribs on a boat that is built with shiplapped cedar strips over oak ribs, Peterborough style. I have a question about attaching the new ribs. I am removing the old ribs and pulling the clinched copper nails through the strips leaving rows of nail holes in the hull. After I install the new ribs, should I reuse the old nail holes? If so, I was thinking of adding a copper washer on the outside to give them more purchase. If not, any recomendations on what to use to fill all those holes (I am going to end up replacing pretty much all the ribs). I am concerned about ending up with a polka-dotted boat. A couple pictures are attached for clarity.
Question about Replacing Ribs
- Thread starter greatgray
- Start date
Mark Adams
all wood nut
Hi,
Use the same holes, using nails with equally sized heads. There is no need for washers. (besides, imagine how THAT would look!)
Use the same holes, using nails with equally sized heads. There is no need for washers. (besides, imagine how THAT would look!)
Cliff Ober
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
I'm working on doing the same thing with a 70-80yr old cedar strip rowboat. You may find that the easiest way to remove the old ribs is to split them instead of trying to push all the nails back out. Use a chisel and go into the rib at an angle so there's less risk of driving through the planks. When you get the rib to start splitting you may be able to get in with a small pry bar to advance the split and release the nails. This has been working like a charm on my boat; I can get a rib out in just a couple minutes time and then clip the nails. It saves trying to unclench all the nails.
One thing that helps keep the nail heads from splintering the wood around the heads when they're pushed out is to wet the wood with hot soapy water (just in the area where you're working). When you put in the new nails drill the ribs with a bit that's slightly smaller than the nails to keep the ribs from splitting or the nails from buckling.
Just out of curiosity what kind of oak was used on your boat, red or white? Is there any chance that ash or elm were used?
Cliff
Paul Miller
Canoe Nut
I thought I replied to this thread earlier, but see it did not post.
Ditto what Mark said;
I have attached a few pictures of a wide board canoe that had all of the ribs under the keelson replaced with rib nails removed and replaced in the same holes.
After the hammer blossoms are swelled out with hot water you should not be able to tell the difference between the nails in the ribs and those on the seams.
Good luck,
Paul
Ditto what Mark said;
I have attached a few pictures of a wide board canoe that had all of the ribs under the keelson replaced with rib nails removed and replaced in the same holes.
After the hammer blossoms are swelled out with hot water you should not be able to tell the difference between the nails in the ribs and those on the seams.
Good luck,
Paul
Attachments
cliff, thanks for the splitting tip. I have been using a small grinder to get the clinch off. It works, but i think it is more work than your suggestion. My boat is an old rowboat as well, about 60 years old. The large hardwood pieces (knees, thwart, etc.) are white oak. I have always assumed that the ribs were also. However, after reading about Peterboroughs, I am now not sure. Could be ash or elm. I asked one wood guy what he thought it was and he said white oak, but the cross section on the pieces is pretty small. I have a local mill getting me some fresh cut white oak that I am going to use.
Cliff Ober
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
No, I'm not replacing any of the strips as they're in good shape. I've removed the two adjacent to the keelson to get access to the nails, but they will go back in as-is. They are rabbetted (ship-lapped); that was standard Peterborough/Lakefield procedure in my experience.
I also have a 100+ year old Lakefield canoe; the ribs in that are rock elm. Fortunately it doesn't need any work; getting elm is tough.
Cliff
Cliff,
You are lucky. I have a number of strips that have split laps scattered about the bottom and some rot under the old rub rails. My original plan was to replank the bottom. However, after realizing that the strips are tapered fore and aft and reading a forum thread about the difficulty in replicating these shapes, I think I am just going to do repairs as best I can. I have already removed the two under the keelson as you have, but they did not come out well. Both stuck strongly to the rabbet on the adjacent strips and split them. How did you get yours off cleanly? I have read that Peterborough would use varnish on the laps as glue prior to installation and was thinking of trying a heat gun to soften the grip.
You are lucky. I have a number of strips that have split laps scattered about the bottom and some rot under the old rub rails. My original plan was to replank the bottom. However, after realizing that the strips are tapered fore and aft and reading a forum thread about the difficulty in replicating these shapes, I think I am just going to do repairs as best I can. I have already removed the two under the keelson as you have, but they did not come out well. Both stuck strongly to the rabbet on the adjacent strips and split them. How did you get yours off cleanly? I have read that Peterborough would use varnish on the laps as glue prior to installation and was thinking of trying a heat gun to soften the grip.
Cliff Ober
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Prior to removing the strips I slopped on plenty of stripper (the nastyest Methylene Chloride type I could find) and then covered it with foil to retard evaporation. After waiting 1/2 hour or so I started carefully prying the strips up. They came off pretty well, with no damage.
I've not heard of varnish being used as a glue for the strips, but it does wick into the seams between and act as a sealant. Many folks believe that a wooden boat has to "soak-up" to become watertight; I learned from old-timers that having to soak a boat meant that it needed to be refinished. A finish in good condition will not permit water to enter.
Cliff
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