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It's Official - my '51 OTCA project

Discussion in 'Wood and Canvas' started by mmmalmberg, Nov 25, 2019.

  1. OP
    OP
    mmmalmberg

    mmmalmberg LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Still looking for some eastern white spruce. Will contact some more from the supplier's list but if anyone feels like putting a stamp on a board or two let me know:)
     
  2. Dan Lindberg

    Dan Lindberg Ex Wood Hoarder

    Go to your local lumber yard, and look at the 2x SPF piles. Look for a piece that has tight grain and can be up graded by cutting off the knotts.
    Boards with wane on the sides will have fewer knotts.

    Or just go up the coast and get some Sitka.
     
    mmmalmberg likes this.
  3. OP
    OP
    mmmalmberg

    mmmalmberg LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Hi Dan. Out here the SPF would be fir; I'm hoping to come as close as I can to a match. I have plenty of Douglas fir around so I can cut some and see how it looks visually, 'though I don't know how well it bends, comparatively - ? The SPF fir might be a whiter variety. I can (and did) get Sitka here but it looks completely different. Thanks:)
     
  4. OP
    OP
    mmmalmberg

    mmmalmberg LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Bent my first (ever) pieces of wood today. I tried boiling a popsicle stick in a pan at home and it broke when I tried to bend it, so I figured I was ready to do it for real. Pics of my boiler and a bent piece of ash. I'm only replacing a few inches of outer stem tips but I wanted to bend them just to try it. Plus I'll be needing to bend longer pieces of spruce, once I find some, for all the inwale tips.



    I know unorthodox but it was fun and as easy as anything else...
    IMG_7531.JPG
     
  5. OP
    OP
    mmmalmberg

    mmmalmberg LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Going to replace tip on one outer stem and am going to attempt to bend a whole new outer stem for the bow. Found some cracks in it when I stripped it and didn't make sense to have it all cobbled together.

    Here's two ways of generating the tighter curve to compensate for spring-back. Assuming the second is prefered (?), which I obtained simply by springing the existing stem inward and tracing that.

    Also the bow outer stem has a short section between it and the keel that tapers from a smaller size for the stem to a larger size for the keel. I'm assuming that would have been a repair, and would that taper have originally been part of the keel or part of the stem?

    Thx...
    IMG_7692.JPG IMG_7694.JPG
     
  6. OP
    OP
    mmmalmberg

    mmmalmberg LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Cut and fit the patch for the inwale. Top and bottom I can plane after gluing; not sure when or how to cut the outside angled surface...

    p.s. As of this picture the fit was pretty close but not perfect, even after some time sanding/planing/filing. So I soaked it for about an hour, brought it up to boil for about 4 minutes just to soften the surface, and then clamped it very thoroughly to the rail to mold it into a better fit. Maybe superfluous, but seemed clever in the moment:) IMG_7372.JPG
     
  7. OP
    OP
    mmmalmberg

    mmmalmberg LOVES Wooden Canoes

    How do stems and rails come not to meet like this? At one end, it seems the end of the stem sits about 3/16" below the rails. At the other end the stem meets the rails about 3/16" before their ends. Is there a way to know which is right?
    IMG_3236.JPG IMG_4342.JPG
     

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